I really like Moscow, but aside from the vodka, it can be one very expensive city. And like any other major metropolitan area, the key to cheap eats is to generally move away from the city's center, away from popular tourist sites.
However, sometimes while in the heart of a city you get lucky and stumble across a local that is relativley inexpensive with good food. The last time I was in Moscow, I found such a place - it's called No. 57.
No. 57 is both a cafeteria style eatery and cafe located on the top level of the famous GUM shopping mall that faces Red Square. Where just about every store in GUM is connected to high-end living, No. 57 keeps it real with hearty, down home Russian comfort food.
The menu is completely a la carte and the food is served cafeteria style - tray and all. For starters I had boiled eggs and salmon topped with red caviar; goulash with rice for my main dish and a glass of black currant juice. My total came to 325 rubles or $10.61 US. That's basically unheard of for a full dinner smack dab in the middle of Moscow's main tourist area.
The menu has a lot to choose from. But the best part is that it's all pretty cheap. From salads (75 rubles or $2.50 US) to chicken cutlets (135 rubles or $4.41 US). The portions are not huge by American standards and the dishes aren't exactly gourmet, but the food at No. 57 is tasty (although my goulash could of had a bit more seasoning), hits the spot - especially if you are hungry - and again is quite inexpensive.
No. 57 is comprised of two sections that flow right into each other. There is the restaurant described above and then there is the cafe - where I had a glass of Russian sparkling wine and a slice of apple strudel each for 70 rubles ($2.30 US).
The entire establishment itself is very bright, airy and attractive. You can opt to eat inside or sit outside on the terrace and watch Russian shoppers and site seers walk by or simply gaze at the beautiful architectural details of GUM's shopping complex - notably the ceiling.
Although the area surrounding GUM is very touristy (again, Red Sqaure and St. Basil Cathedral are right outside the door), No. 57 isn't. The vast majority of the clientele seemed to be locals - from college students to senior citizens.
For a relativlely cheap yet filling meal in a very attractive atmosphere right in the middle of Moscow's most visited area, my suggestion is to try No. 57. Your wallet will thank you.
Stolovaya No. 57
GUM Department Store
Facing Red Square
Moscow
